DODGE THE BIKES in VIETNAM

Travelog date: Dec 1, 2008

Nha Trang, Vietnam



Nha Trang main attraction
sandy beach



VIETNAM – the country that is often associated with hostile image of war, violence, poverty and prostitution. Is it a myth or is the reality of Vietnam and the people?

Enough movies have been made about the country and its plight, especially the suffering of its people – war and poverty. But none of those made the country famous (whether its for good or bad) than its involvement with the United States via the famous Vietnam war in the middle 70’s. Often the image of local ladies clad in their traditional Ao Dai, the long-cheongsam like costume paired with long pants and a pyramid-shape hat running around in distress to be rescued by the American G.I, hero would appear on the screen.

Infact, the country had been in war ever since from the earlier years as Chinese occupation. Then the French in the mid 19^th century – just like Malaysia under the British and Indonesia under the Dutch colonization. Vietnam was part of French’s IndoChina colony covering Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. There is no need to mention how the French colony had squeezed the wealth and had turned the country as its main supplier of rice.

Then people of Vietnam had been fighting to gain independence ever since the beginning. If we have our Tunku to fight for us, they had Ho Chin Minh who fought to gain the country’s independence from France since the 40’s. But unlike us, they didnt fight with mere words. The Vietnamese were engaged in a 20-year war (1955-1975) between all three occupied countries with the French. Meanwhile Ho Chin Minh continued to loudly campaigning for his country’s independence. With his strong ideology and writings, he had caught the eyes and attention of the Uncle Sam (USA). Well French didnt like US to be involved in their affair and tried to shut them off (simply put). The French agreed to give independence to Vietnam but to have their representative as leader. One thing lead to another, the country was then divided into two – the North and South Vietnam with the north embracing Communism (which was a no-no to the Americans).

The American decided to join the Vietnam War, in the name of lending a helping hand to Ho Chin Minh south Vietnam, which ended up in the death of millions of people (from all sides) and ended the war in 1975. But many felt the involvement was more of political reason than mere kind gesture. Many believed it was a lame excuse as they had taken the  South Vietnam as the US’s puppet government.

Those were the information that I stored in my head before I stepped foot in the country itself (of the war, of the USA and of these Vietnamese plight).

My visit to Nha Trang, was to attend a seminar on seagrass, yes its the grass that grow in the sea, the food that the sea version of cows eat – also known as dugong. It was a seminar organised by UNEP SCS (United Nation Environment Programme – South China Sea Project). It was attended by authority and mayors from all the participating countries.

Nha Trang was selected for the event due to its status as a famous tourist site – it was also the venue chosen for Miss World Universe.

With a population of 300,000, Nha Trang still retains its small town atmosphere. Surrounded by 10km of white sandy beach, the city has gain popularity especially among the G.Is who want to walk back down memory lane – and perhaps of the people and girls they left behind. But since it was in December, we didn’t have chance to see much of the beach. Strong wind and high waves gave the beaches its ‘unfriendly’ to visitors sign.

"air service" by the roadside

Its pronounce Na.Chang....not Na-trang!!

Traces of human settlement in Nha Trang date back to the Cham Empire, though in times of Vietnamese rule, there wasn’t much more than small fishing villages. The French recognized that this beautiful bay, with its islands and white sand beaches, made for a perfect bathing spot, and began the transformation into a resort town. American soldiers agreed, and Nha Trang became a favorite vacation stop during the war. Even the Nha Trang airport was previously an airforce base.

 It is a common sight to see old G.Is walking around in the city with hands tightly wrapped around the small waist of Vietnamese girls, exchanging passionate words or kisses along the way. Perhaps it was the easiest way of earning a living for the girls.

“Most of these girls are not local. They come from somewhere else and they come here for a vacation with their partner,” said the girl at the hotel’s front desk when I asked.

Fruits

ladies selling food
by the roadside

Somehow, the food was not that appealing to me. Although the host tried their best to serve local food, they were too much to swallow for me. Even simple fish and vegetable dishes were either overcooked or too plain for my tastebuds. Fortunately when in need, bread and fruits come to rescue.

One of the legacy the French left behind in Vietnam is their French bread. The loaf is sold all over the place and they eat it with almost everything from sweet jams to savory sausages. My favourite was of course with peanut butter and jam for breakfast with plenty of fruits. For tea was toasted bread with butter and jam. For dinner, its egg sandwich – I mean sandwich because its easy over fried egg on french bread, sandwich with lettuce, onion and cheese with mustard and mayonaise and how some friends thought it look yummy.

One of the must have fruits while in Vietnam is the dragon fruit and this fruit is plenty. Infact its a home for the fruit. They had it nicely sliced and arranged in a platter, chopped and mixed into fruit salad and even turned into blood-red punch.

No Traffic Light

Like in the Netherlands and Korea, the two wheelers are also everywhere in Vietnam. There were hardly any four wheelers. Its bicycles and motorcycles all over the place. Unlike riders in Malaysia, these Vietnamese in Nha Trang do behave themselves when they were on the wheel. They do take their time and do not try to outrun each other while on the road.

road in Nha Trang

One thing I notice in Nha Trang was that there was no traffic light. Motorists would just move along the road, on their own speed, dodging people who try to cross the road along the way.

The scene was different in Ho Chin Minh.

It was like madness as motorists swarmed the road and the traffic lights do little justice to pedestrians who try to cross the road.

It was said that millions of bikers (on bicycles and motorcycles) in the capital city of Vietnam which was previously known as Saigon. It can be scary to see these bikers zipping and zooming pass the road. It can be a nightmare to those of the faint heart.

After realising that I had so much trouble trying to cross the road, a local lady told to ‘just cross’ as the motorcycle riders will accommodate and dodge.

With eyes almost half closed, I stepped on the road and moved on, hoping not to get hit by the motorcyclists...and it worked. The motorcyclists did make way for me and I managed to cross the road safely – everytime.

It was shopping time at the Big Market (Ben Thanh) in Ho Chin Minh.

ends