KAJANG in black

Travelog date: Saturday April 18, 2009
Location: Kajang Village, South Sulawesi, Indonesia

A typical Kajang house

Most Malaysians probably have heard about the name. But no, its not the Kajang town in Hulu Langat or the satay that is synanomous to the town itself. It is a remote town in South Sulawesi, Indonesia.

When we were told by the tour guide that we were going to visit the place, we smiled and wondered. And then when he told us that what we were about to see was something unique to the area, most of us stopped smiling but continued to wonder, whatever did he mean by that.

All of us were wearing black - from head to toe.


Men and women
in black

 We were told not to wear anything other than that colour.
Our tour guide said it was compulsory as the people in Kajang do not welcome visitors wearing anything other than black into their village. He just smiled when we showered him with questions as why we had to wear black for the visit. And we couldnt help but to wonder some more.

The outskirt of the village was nothing different that any other villages that we passed during our journey. Narrow paved road. Wooden houses on the stilts built along the roadside. Occasionally the van driver had to slow down to yield to the animals strolling leisurely on the road (whether its dogs, cats, goats, cows and even chicken). More ofthen, halted to give way to the incoming local traffic who seemed to only know the meaning of  their 'right a way'. Several sundry shops selling local knick knacks that looked foreign to our eyes, or was it us that were foreign to such sight?

Finally we arrived at the common area, the place where local community meet for functions and meeting. It was their community hall.

"This is it, from here on, we have to travel on foot.
"This is as far as it goes for motor vehicles," said Roby, our tour guide.
We walked on what the tour guide called road - but honestly, it was more like a trail. Pebbles were laid on the clay soiled surface to prevent people from slipping and fall flat in their fannies during heavy rainfall or when the road is wet and slippery. The drains on both sides of the road also helps in keeping the road surface as dry as it could get.

Our shoes were surely not made for this type of road surface - the clay was too slippery and clinged to the sole of our shoes, (and dont seem want to let go of our shoes) and the pebbles half buried on the road which otherwise would prevent people from slipping was too hard for us to walk on with our shoes (and it does hurt when you step on).

From behind we could hear a clicking sound, and it was fast approaching near us. It was one of the villagers heading back home, holding a horse by its rein with a loadfull of firewood on its back. It wasnt too long that we had to make way them. Barefoot, the man and his horse walked much faster than us who were clad in all black attire. In mere minutes, the man and his horse disappeared in a corner of the trail and from our sight. His feet and the horse's hoof were definitely made for the road hehehe (and for a moment I was even contemplating about taking my shoes off). But the horse didnt leave us without his trail - his poop on the road, adding obstacle for us to dodge, and his was not the only 'boobie' trap found on the road.

After walking for about one kilometre (and having a good foot reflexology on the road and jumping around to dodge the 'boobie trap' left by the horses along the way, we saw sign of more inhabitants. A group of women clad in black shirt and sarong, washing their clothes in the stream by the roadside. A well was dug up nearby for their use.

"That was their only source of water. So they come here to fetch water, wash clothes and bathe. This is also a meeting place for them - where they can meet and talk to the other villagers," said Roby.
We watched the children at awe as they try to hide themselves from us behind the trees, and we watched them in amazement as we try to peek at them with our 'friendly' smiles.

"Welcome to Tana Toa, the heritage land of the Kajang people," announced Roby, and we were wondering whether we should clap our hands at that moment.

Seing the first house in Kajang village was like seing the first skyscraper in a metropolitan city.
Wooden houses on stilts, with roof made out of palm leaves and wall made out of tree bark or interwoven fibers.

SIMPLICITY!
Thats the rule of thumb in Kajang.
There is nothing fancy.
"What you see is what you get. There is no furniture, stove or modern appliances like tv, radio or handphones inside the house," pointed Roby.

A woman clad in a black sarong sit on the wooden stairs, looking into the emptiness. Shortly after, realising our presence, a man, perhaps her son and a young gal, perhaps her grandaughter peeked from the window.

"Their phylosophy is simple - life is only temporary and they are in transit here in the world for a permanent life in the afterworld.
"So they are constantly reminded of the fact that they will die and that they have to be prepared for that - thus the reason why they practice simplicity," said Roby.

Worldly items whether in the form of materials, thought and practice, will only complicate matters when they have to 'move' on to the more permanent world. Thus modern material, ideology and living is totally rejected and even considered as sin to them.
Simplicity is not seen on their houses. Its the uniformity.
The structure were similar throughout the village so the next house and the next, look exactly the same.

Black
Everyday the Kajang people also wear the same colour - black!
For them, black symbolizes the simplicity and similarity among communities in Kajang.
For them it also means retaining balance in the community. (Perhaps an exeption is made for the children as some of them were wearing coloured t-shirts).

As the cloud starts to gather on our head and the wind started to blow indicating that rain might fall soon, we, ladies and men in black - had to move on, to explore what other offering Sulawesi can offer us.


Ends