Tuesday, November 2, 2010

CHANGWON, South Korea

Travelog date: Nov 2008


When one talks about Korea, one of the first thing that come to their mind is probably the gorgeous and handsome artistes, thanks to those Korean dramas. At least for those who do not watch those imported dramas for their own reasons, they probably would think about the countries martial art – Taekwando. Then there is that reddish, spicy, pickled cabbage – kim chi. But is that all to it about Korea?

My first experience knowing these Koreans were during my first years in college, well that was in 1987 (wow so long ago meh?). There were a group of Korean students at the college. It was that I had the close encounter on their food, their lifestyle – though perhaps not all are that relevant now hehehe. Mind you it was the late ‘80’s in the States.
And one of them, Roy (gosh I forgot his Korean name though) was madly in love with my roomate, Junko Higuchi, a Japanese lass.

It was from them that I learned one of the biggest misconception that people tend to have about their countries – Korea is not Japan and they do not like to be associated with each other and vice versa. Most people think that Koreans are very similar to Japanese, and most people even think that the Korean people look like Japanese. Well, do they? I used to think that Korean language is similar to Japanese, but do they?  Junko taught me a few words of Japanese and from my tae-kwan-do classes, I picked up a few words of Korean language – oh man, they are not similar at all. Japanese are much closer to mandarin, and Junko could even read Chinese character – but not Korean. Why do they hate each other?

Well, (here goes a bit of history lesson hehe) Korea was occupied by Japan for 35 years between 1910 (early Japanese-Chinese war) to 1945 (end of WWII).
During its occupation, Japan built up Korea's infrastructure, especially the street and railroad systems. However, the Japanese ruled with an iron fist and attempted to root out all elements of Korean culture from society. People were forced to adopt Japanese names, convert to the Shinto (native Japanese) religion, and were forbidden to use Korean language in schools and business.

Demo for tea
drinking ceremony - Korean style!
The Independence Movement on March 1, 1919, was brutally repressed, resulting in the killing of thousands, the maiming and imprisoning of tens of thousands, and destroying of hundreds of churches, temples, schools, and private homes. During World War II, Japan siphoned off more and more of Korea's resources, including its people, to feed its Imperial war machine. Many of the forced laborers were never repatriated to Korea.
And yes I remember how Roy used to tell me story about the 'suffering' his ancestors had to go through during that time, and Junko would just gave him the 'so what' face.

Now, that answers why the Korean will pull a face everytime when someone tells them how closely look or similar they are to the Japs. (So next time when you meet a Korean, don’t ever tell them that they look like Japanese or mix the two countries together and they will appreciate you more!)

Enough of blubbering. Where am I going with that? Well, I knew a bit about Korea and were quite close to a group of these people, had covered Korean events including a Korean festival here in Malaysia during my years as a reporter.

BUT I have never been in Korea.

Aha, but that was not until end of 2008 where I had the invitation to attend the 10th RAMSAR convention in Changwon, South Korea between Oct 28- Nov 4. (Here goes again cikgu - Ramsar convention is an intergovernmental treaty signed by all participating countries to maintain the ecological character of their wetlands and at the same time recognising its international importance. The convention was signed in Ramsar, Iran, 1971. Thus when one mentions about Ramsar sites – they are referring to sites that have been indentified by the Ramsar committee as having an international importance – just like unesco and world heritage site. These sites are no longer “belong” to any particular individual country but shared by people all over the world for its importance :D).

A Planned city

A view of the city
taken from my hotel room

One of the first thing that I noticed about Changwon is the ‘grid’ system of the city. Everything is laid out in a square block, divided by spacious, straight roads. I later found out that the city is one of the few planned cities in the country – which remind me of Shah Alam, being a planned city (and oh so not like Petaling Jaya hehehe)

houses built next to each
other in the designated
grid

Developed in the 1970s it was designed to be the new capital for Gyeongsangnam-do and an alternative capital for the country should Seoul be invaded. Invaded? Yes, remember the country’s history being under Japanese occupation, so it comes as no surprise that they develop their own defense strategy. Now that they no longer receive threat from Japan, it is their own ‘ah-long’ like brother, from the north that they are protecting themselves from.


the planned city in
grid system

The city is surrounded by mountains, which provides a natural protection. A missile defense station sits on top of the southern mountain range. Changwon boasts of the longest straight road in the nation (Changwon Main Road - Changwondae-no), which is over 12Km long. If necessary the road can be used as a landing runway (and yes the road is of a runway quality and even a commercial plane can land smoothly!) I can imagine how our mat-rempits will have a blast on these roads but then again, while I was on the road, I never saw anyone speeding beyond the permitted speed limit. And there was no traffic police on the road either. Hmmm...


Mecca for Bicycles


A designated lane
for cyclists

The city is also known for its bike friendly environment. A special lane has been built on the roadside. The share the same sidewalk with pedestrian but has a lane designated for cyclist so they dont get on the pedestrian’s way.

Apparently various policies have been drawn to encourage the city’s population to use bicycle – which was evidently good for the environment and one’s health.
Bike for rent


If you do not have your own bike, then you can rent them using a card machine system similar to our touch & go system. One needs to buy the card, use it to unlock the bicycle, ride to the destination and then park the bike at its next station and return the card to the machine or collect the balance. The bike is charged according to the distance.

The Nubija project, which was launched in 2008 , is a public bicycle-rental program for citizens modeled after a similar project in France, said a friend.
Each designated terminals, located at various areas in the city, has about 430 bicycles available for rental.
In addition, Changwon became the first Korean city to adopt an accident insurance policy for cyclists last September. It also offers monetary incentives for those who cycle to work. He added, those commuting to and from work for more than 15 days per month on a bicycle are entitled to 30,000 won per month from the city administration. There is also an education center for cyclists where they can learn more about how to become a safe and informed rider. It also offers free bicycle repair services.

Everything Korean

Buk - the Korean
traditional drum
These Koreans are proud of everything Korean. (I presume after the threat of almost losing their own identity under the iron fist of Japanese rulers). So everything that they do, they do it their way – the Korean way. Not much of thought for the outsiders, foreigners – including the language. I had a very hard time to communicate with them at the hotel, the stores and even with the taxi drivers (similar experience in Thailand and Japan...arrrggghhh). And they thought I was from the Philippines? Get real!

Processing Korean green tea -
its green because the tea leaves
were roasted straight upon being picked
without having to go through the
fermenting process (which gives the
reddish-golden colour)


So everyone is basically using the country’s own brand - from handphones to cars and electronic items. Its LG, Samsung and yes Hyundai rule the road with models that I have never even seen before. From the top notch all the way to taxis – all using the ‘H’ cars, and I dont mean Honda hehe. But one thing – they are targeting at their own local market, local buyers. They do not depend on foreigners to purchase their products.

Why do I say that? Because I had problem finding shops that sell souvenirs.  All of us searched high and low to look for souvenirs with anything Korean or Changwon or even Ramsar (the event) on to take home with us. No bookmarks, no shirts, mugs or any other paraphernalia representing the country in any way. The logic is I presume, why would locals want to buy such things? Fortunately we found a bookstore that sells knick knacks such as handphone rings, bookmarks, pens with Korean words on it. Tak ada rotan, akar pun berguna juga.


Toilet seat in my room
with high-tech bidet system
allowing user to control
the speed and amount of water to use.
It can also warms the toilet seat for you.

An Octopus is trying to escape from the plate

One of the best part when it comes to such high profile, international event is that enjoying the feast prepared for all guests during the gala dinner – whether during the opening/welcoming or closing night. Since I couldnt make it for the opening dinner, I made sure that I attended the farewell gala dinner. It was fun exchanging stories with delegates and guests from all over the world.

The best part was the gala dinner and this time the host wanted us to try their best cuisine – authentic Korean fare, from all nooks and corners of the country. And this is something that they share with the Japanese (and they might not like it when I say it though). They have the passion for raw things, from meat to seafood.

The chef trying to free
the tentacles from clinging
to the side of the plate
I have eaten plenty of sushi, sashimi or want not, but it was not until that night that I had the squeamish and disgust to see what is being served. Infront of me, stood a young sous chef, holding a knife in hand and looking at me, I presumed he was asking whether I want the food he’s offering or not? I looked down, he opened the cover of the container, and inside, a container full of young, baby octopus, reaching out with all of their eight hands, I mean tentacles to get out of the container. I dare not think much and shook my head and gave way to the person behind me, a mat salleh who looked daring enough to try the offering. The moment the guy nodded in agreement, the young chef, grab one of the reluctant baby octopus, pulling the tentacles away from the side of the container, placing it on the chopping board and...committed the murder....with blood splattering all over, hahahaha (a bit of drama there huh, but yes, a bit of blood, i mean ink :D ). The chef then sprinkled some sesame oil on the plate and handed the plate over. Our eyes, (both the mat salleh and me) were glued to the plate he was holding and the mutilated octopus as the detached tentacles trying to make an escape from the plate. It was at this time suddenly the horns on my head came out and did something naughty. I said ‘boo” to the guy and he shuddered and almost let his plate go and some of the tentacles actually fell on the ground. We laughed, and everyone watching us joined in.

A Korean friend quickly came, perhaps to prevent us from making fun of her country’s delicacy and politely told us that we should consume the octopus immediately before it dies off. So it’s best eaten that way – while its still alive. That mat salleh put the baby octopus into his mouth but the problem was the tentacles were still squirming and fighting--which probably equates to a party in the mouth, screaming its way, until the guy chew them to death inside his mouth! Huhuhu... Apparently, eating live octopus, or sannakji in South Korea is seen as a novelty and health dish ( i can always choose to eating fruit and vegetables to have such effects, cant I, or is it less dramatic?). 

photos by SALINA KHALID

The End

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