Travelog date: March 29, 2009
Tachilek, Myanmar
SPLIT THE BANANA
NOTE: meaning of split (split)
to separate, cut, or divide into two or more parts; cause to separate along the grain or length; break into layers
to break or tear apart by force; burst; rend
to divide into parts or shares; portion out: to split the cost
Please note that on August 23, 2010, the Government of Burma informed the U.S. Embassy that starting on September 1, 2010, it will suspend its "Visa on Arrival" program, which had been in effect since May 2010.
In Burma, you will be required to show your passport with a valid visa at all airports, train stations, and hotels. Security checkpoints are common outside of tourist areas.
Burmese authorities rarely issue visas to persons with occupations they deem “sensitive,” including journalists. Many journalists and writers traveling to Burma on tourist visas have been denied entry. Journalists -- and tourists mistaken for journalists -- have been harassed. Some journalists have had film and notes confiscated upon leaving the country.
- Warning issued by the Travel.State.Gov., A service of The Bureau of Consular Affairs of the U.S. Department of State to all visitors to Myanmar.
Such is the restriction imposed on those who stated their occupation as journalist or writers. I have had friends who were denied entry to the country at the border once the officials found out their real occupation was, although the purpose of their entering the country was plainly to visit, as tourist.
So you can imagine my fear when I was invited by a friend to visit the country during my tenure as a journalist (I was yet to resign from the post).
I hesitated despite the sincere and serious offer by this friend who actually works as a high ranking government officer in Myanmar. We met during an environmental seminar in Japan. He even offered to provide us with escort services from the airport and was ever willing to accommodate us at his home, as a friend.
The second chance came when I was invited to join a study in migratory birds near the Myanmar’s side of Mekong River Basin. Even then our Aussie teamleader decided to call the trip off due to the unstable political situation in the area during the time.
The third opportunity came as a surprise during my site visit to Chieng Rai, Thailand early 2009.
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| Mae Sai, Thailand's northern most town bordering Myanmar |
A local friend invited me to take a short trip across the border – just to see how it was over there on the other side of the fence (They have heard about my previous two thwarted plans to enter the country).
I was quick to jump into the opportunity but with nonetheless worried about the risks.
But they assured me that nothing could happen as they were there, and would be my knight in shining armour when it need. I couldnt help but to laugh at that.
We drove to Mae Sai from Chiang Rai
Stopping over to buy drinking water and a bunch of bananas for breakfast.
As we approach the border crossing, we saw an ever optimistic flotilla of tuk tuks lined up at the end of the road waiting for customers. And also waiting for tourists is a gaggle of Thai children, dressed in colourful hill-tribe costumes, and cajoling money in exchange for posing for photographs.
“They are not really from the hill-tribes. They are local children whose family have brought them these costumes and to try to make quick dollar,” a friend explained.
Split the bananas
We parked our vehicle.
We still had three pieces of the bananas that we bought earlier and thought that it would not be a good idea to leave it in the car, under the blazing heat for a whole day while we were out hopping to another country.
The Burmese parking attendant saw what I was doing and run to me. I froze.Held my breath as I saw the man running towards me. Did I do anything wrong, did I offend anyone? He was pointing at the banana in my hand. He was about to safe the bananas from going into the garbage bin.
He asked me if I could give him the banana instead of throwing it away. I was speechless. It never occured to me that I could give the bananas away instead of disposing it. I was trying to save the car from being smelled like roasted banana. Never that I thought it could become someone’s meal instead.
Later as we walked down the parking lot, we saw a group of young Burmese who were manning the parking lot, enjoying the bananas. About 10 of them shared the three bananas I almost threw away into the garbage bin. The guys nodded to us, pressing both their palms to their chest in gratitude us for the bananas. I was moved. Suddenly my great grandmother's words echoed into ears - don't waste food, they will cry! Oh and how I used to laugh it off everytime when she said that.
"How could inanimate object cry?"
"How could inanimate object cry?"
Welcome to Myanmar
The border point between the two countries is actually the middle of the bridge built across the Mae Sai River. It straddles the polluted-looking brown river making its slow way down a gully beneath us.
Two barriers made from iron piping carried a sign that reads “WELCOME TO MYANMAR”.
We approached a makeshift hut and gave our passports.
And few minutes later they are finished in exchanged for 50baht and issued a one-day border pass into the People’s Republic of Myanmar. He had stamped a V.I.P pass on the paper. I smiled from ear to ear.
But my excitement soon vanished. I was asked to surrender my passport to the border officer. A temporary pass was handed out in exchange and to be returned back in order to get my passport upon re-entering Thailand on the way back.
I was worried. Very worried. And it was obvious.
Who wouldn’t? Having to walk across to Myanmar without the passport in hand? What if something happened while I was there?
“What if anything happened while we are there?” I asked with a sincere tone of concern.
“Well, if something happens and the situation gets sticky, then you have to run as fast as you can to the bridge and cross the border ok,” they answered.
I didn’t really like the sound of that but it was an opportunity not to be missed.
Since all of my other travel companions are of Thai nationals, I had more reason to worry. If anything happens, then most likely I would be in deeper than them.
So there I was walking into Myanmar without passport in hard and the friendly reminder from my friend just now echoed loudly in my head, “Run as fast as you can to the bridge,”
“Yeah, sure!,” I thought. Afterall I am a world class sprinter and could reach 100m in less than 10 sec. Yeah, get real!
Silently I was praying that nothing would happen while I was there.
We stepped foot in Tachilek, Myanmar.
The signboard which read, City of The Golden Triangle, bears testimony of our location.
After being in Thailand for a while, I realised that the people in Myanmar are much poorer. Its probably the chance of earning money in this country is considerably less than their neighbours in Thailand.
There were very few cars and much of the transport in the trishaw or tuk-tuk.
We ventured into the local market. And was surprised to see that many of the stall-operators are not Myanmar but Bangladeshis who were selling merchandise that is predominantly from China. Everything from cigarettes to whisky carried the “Made in China’ label. No need to wonder as for who controls the economy here.
What we see there is pretty much the same with what’s available in any similar markets in the region. From clothing, bags, to gadgets, food items and even animal paraphernalia.
Men in sarong and powder covered face
One thing that caught my attention was that most Burmese, women and men alike, prefer to wear sarong. It is amazing how they could hold their sarong in place while walking along the market place selling items carried on their head. Face covered with yellowish powder and teeth and lips dark red, stained by betel leaf. Almost everyone use the face powder. Not only women but men and children as well.
“It is thanaka powder,” said a stall operator who is selling the powder in a compact form. He said the powder, which was derived from a root is used for its cooling effect and serves as a sunblock. It is applied not only on the face but also on arms and hands.
“It helps prevent acne and make the skin smooth and clear,” he added.
After visiting the food stalls for a taste of local fruits and fruit juice to refresh our throat, I decided that I had enough. There was nothing much to see or tell about the country from this site. Perhaps I would have a chance to go into the country and see more of what it has to offer next time.
I couldn’t be happier to have my passport back.
