TWO-WATER Canal, Krabi

Krabi, Thailand


Tha Phom Klong Song Nam, Krabi

WHAT do you get when you mix salt and plain water?

Well, brackish water, water that has a lower salt content yet salty enough to kill certain species of fish and other fresh water microorganism. The area is known as estuary. It has its own set of habitat, with its own ecosystem.

The level of salt content in the water actually would depend on the tide. During high tide it means the water will go upstream.

But during lowtide, the water will flow into the sea, causing the salt level in the river to go lower. Obviously the salinity level is higher on the coastal area compare to higher inland.

This is one of  functions of the mangrove trees – to filter the salinity in the water. The roots of the mangrove trees will absorb the salt and filter it before releasing the clearer water, minus the salt, to be carried out inland during the high-tide. (Amazing isn’t it?)

Most of the time, the condition of the water in estuary is quite muddy with high turbidity, usually from the sediment flowing in from the upstream.

But in Klong Song Nam, Krabi, it is totally opposite.

It is crystal clear – despite its location near the sea.

Can you imagine turquois-coloured water, allowing you to see to the bed of the river and watch angel fish swim freely while nibbling on the green algae on the rocks inside the water?

And this is no human made – or regulated. Au naturale!

Khlong Song Nam in Thai literally means "two water canal", because of its special feature location where crystal clear freshwater, which the pool’s floor and the roots of Lumphi palm (Eleiodoxa conferta) are virtually visible, meets seawater from the mangrove forest. Basically it is where the fresh water from the hill meets with the salty, sea water.

The Klong Song Nam, is located in Moo 2, Baan Nongjit, Khao Khram Sub-district, Muang District, Krabi Province. Only 100 metres from the car park you will find the amazingly clear waters which allow sight of this underwater world. The fresh water is high in dissolved limestone which inhibits the formation of precipitates so that the water truly sparkles in the sunlight, as it flows between the mangrove-lined banks.

The local authorities have constructed a wooden walkway around six hundred acres of the forest so that visitors can experience their beautiful surroundings without damaging them. The walkway is about two metres above the ground and takes about 45 minutes to walk round.

There are signboards along the trail which give information about the different species of animals and plants which occupy this ecological system.

The canal is a fascinating microcosm of Thailand’s forest areas. 

Visitors will first encounter the mangrove wetlands with their characteristic tortuous tangle of surface roots but this gives way to the rarely found fresh water swamp forest with small trees and sparse vegetation. This in turn yields to typical rain forest with lush tree growths and shaded paths.

Further on past the prohibited area (Tha Pom Swamp) is the Chong Phra Keaw swamp which is a 40 metre wide expanse where the sea and fresh water actually meet. The waters on the land side are fed via a limestone cave network. 
It is a fascinating area.

Perhaps the best way to enjoy the reserve is by canoe. This offers unparalleled and silent access to all the wildlife which inhabits the banks and waters of this unique water paradise.

Visitors can also observe the exact confluence where the clear fresh flows encounter the detritus heavy sea water. There are small fishing villages along the banks of the canal and by canoe one can observe a way of life which has continued essentially unchanged, for hundreds of years. If you are extremely lucky you may get to take your pick of the day’s catch.

Canoes can be rented for 100 baht an hour or for 700 baht a day – depending on your stamina! The pick-up point is for canoes is near the entrance and the canal can take you all the way to the Andaman Sea via the Klong Palee (Palee canal) 3 kilometres further on.

The place is indeed, a beautiful area to visit. Five kilometers in length, it is unique for its outstandingly clear waters and its location on the tideline.

The canal water is alternatively fresh or brackish depending upon the state of the tides. This has resulted in the development of three different forest systems in a very concentrated area (tropical forest where the fresh water area, the mangroves and the swamp forest)

To get there from Krabi town take the Krabi-Ao Luk road (Highway 4) and turn right at the Pom Khao Khram intersection after five kilometres. The route is signposted all the way.

Car parking is available at 20 baht per car. Restaurants and souvenir shops are adjacent to the parking area. The admission fee for adults is 50 baht: children 30 baht.

In order to preserve the pristine environment food and beverages are prohibited. There is even signboards saying that one should not throw soap or oily contaminants in the canal, jump into the water or swimming.

Since the place is considered as sacred to the locals and some of them go there to meditate, visitors are recommended not to make a lot of noise.

Ends

GOING BANANAS IN TACHILEK, MYANMAR

Travelog date: March 29, 2009

Tachilek, Myanmar

SPLIT THE BANANA

NOTE: meaning of split (split)

transitive verb split, splitting split′·ting

to separate, cut, or divide into two or more parts; cause to separate along the grain or length; break into layers

to break or tear apart by force; burst; rend

to divide into parts or shares; portion out: to split the cost

Please note that on August 23, 2010, the Government of Burma informed the U.S. Embassy that starting on September 1, 2010, it will suspend its "Visa on Arrival" program, which had been in effect since May 2010.

In Burma, you will be required to show your passport with a valid visa at all airports, train stations, and hotels.  Security checkpoints are common outside of tourist areas.

Burmese authorities rarely issue visas to persons with occupations they deem “sensitive,” including journalists.  Many journalists and writers traveling to Burma on tourist visas have been denied entry.  Journalists -- and tourists mistaken for journalists -- have been harassed.  Some journalists have had film and notes confiscated upon leaving the country.

- Warning issued by the Travel.State.Gov., A service of The Bureau of Consular Affairs of the U.S. Department of State to all visitors to Myanmar.

Such is the restriction imposed on those who stated their occupation as journalist or writers. I have had friends who were denied entry to the country at the border once the officials found out their real occupation was, although the purpose of their entering the country was plainly to visit, as tourist.

So you can imagine my fear when I was invited by a friend to visit the country during my tenure as a journalist (I was yet to resign from the post).

I hesitated despite the sincere and serious offer by this friend who actually works as a high ranking government officer in Myanmar. We met during an environmental seminar in Japan. He even offered to provide us with escort services from the airport and was ever willing to accommodate us at his home, as a friend.

The second chance came when I was invited to join a study in migratory birds near the Myanmar’s side of Mekong River Basin. Even then our Aussie teamleader decided to call the trip off due to the unstable political situation in the area during the time.

The third opportunity came as a surprise during my site visit to Chieng Rai, Thailand early  2009.

Mae Sai, Thailand's
northern most town
bordering Myanmar

A local friend invited me to take a short trip across the border – just to see how it was over there on the other side of the fence (They have heard about my previous two thwarted plans to enter the country).

I was quick to jump into the opportunity but with nonetheless worried about the risks.

But they assured me that nothing could happen as they were there, and would be my knight in shining armour when it need. I couldnt help but to laugh at that.

We drove to Mae Sai from Chiang Rai

Stopping over to buy drinking water and a bunch of bananas for breakfast.

As we approach the border crossing, we saw an ever optimistic flotilla of tuk tuks lined up at the end of the road waiting for customers. And also waiting for tourists is a gaggle of Thai children, dressed in colourful hill-tribe costumes, and cajoling money in exchange for posing for photographs.

“They are not really from the hill-tribes. They are local children whose family have brought them these costumes and to try to make quick dollar,” a friend explained.

Split the bananas

We parked our vehicle.

We still had three pieces of the bananas that we bought earlier and thought that it would not be a good idea to leave it in the car, under the blazing heat for a whole day while we were out hopping to another country.

The Burmese parking attendant saw what I was doing and run to me. I froze.Held my breath as I saw the man running towards me. Did I do anything wrong, did I offend anyone? He was pointing at the banana in my hand. He was about to safe the bananas from going into the garbage bin.

He asked me if I could give him the banana instead of throwing it away. I was speechless. It never occured to me that I could give the bananas away instead of disposing it. I was trying to save the car from being smelled like roasted banana. Never that I thought it could become someone’s meal instead.

Later as we walked down the parking lot, we saw a group of young Burmese who were manning the parking lot, enjoying the bananas. About 10 of them shared the three bananas I almost threw away into the garbage bin. The guys nodded to us, pressing both their palms to their chest in gratitude us for the bananas. I was moved. Suddenly my great grandmother's words echoed into ears - don't waste food, they will cry! Oh and how I used to laugh it off everytime when she said that.
"How could inanimate object cry?"

Welcome to Myanmar

The border point between the two countries is actually the middle of the bridge built across the Mae Sai River. It straddles the polluted-looking brown river making its slow way down a gully beneath us.

Two barriers made from iron piping carried a sign that reads “WELCOME TO MYANMAR”.

We approached a makeshift hut and gave our passports.

 And few minutes later they are finished in exchanged for 50baht and issued a one-day border pass into the People’s Republic of Myanmar. He had stamped a V.I.P pass on the paper. I smiled from ear to ear.

But my excitement soon vanished. I was asked to surrender my passport to the border officer. A temporary pass was handed out in exchange and to be returned back in order to get my passport upon re-entering Thailand on the way back.

I was worried. Very worried. And it was obvious.

Who wouldn’t? Having to walk across to Myanmar without the passport in hand? What if something happened while I was there?

“What if anything happened while we are there?” I asked with a sincere tone of concern.

“Well, if something happens and the situation gets sticky, then you have to run as fast as you can to the bridge and cross the border ok,” they answered.

I didn’t really like the sound of that but it was an opportunity not to be missed.

Since all of my other travel companions are of Thai nationals, I had more reason to worry. If anything happens, then most likely I would be in deeper than them.

So there I was walking into Myanmar without passport in hard and the friendly reminder from my friend just now echoed loudly in my head, “Run as fast as you can to the bridge,”

“Yeah, sure!,” I thought. Afterall I am a world class sprinter and could reach 100m in less than 10 sec. Yeah, get real!

Silently I was praying that nothing would happen while I was there.

We stepped foot in Tachilek, Myanmar.

The signboard which read, City of The Golden Triangle, bears testimony of our location.

After being in Thailand for a while, I realised that the people in Myanmar are much poorer. Its probably the chance of earning money in this country is considerably less than their neighbours in Thailand.

There were very few cars and much of the transport in the trishaw or tuk-tuk.

We ventured into the local market. And was surprised to see that many of the stall-operators are not Myanmar but Bangladeshis who were selling merchandise that is predominantly from China. Everything from cigarettes to whisky carried the “Made in China’ label. No need to wonder as for who controls the economy here.

What we see there is pretty much the same with what’s available in any similar markets in the region. From clothing, bags, to gadgets, food items and even animal paraphernalia.

Men in sarong and powder covered face

One thing that caught my attention was that most Burmese, women and men alike, prefer to wear sarong. It is amazing how they could hold their sarong in place while walking along the market place selling items carried on their head. Face covered with yellowish powder and teeth and lips dark red, stained by betel leaf. Almost everyone use the face powder. Not only women but men and children as well.

“It is thanaka powder,” said a stall operator who is selling the powder in a compact form. He said the powder, which was derived from a root is used for its cooling effect and serves as a sunblock. It is applied not only on the face but also on arms and hands.

“It helps prevent acne and make the skin smooth and clear,” he added.

After visiting the food stalls for a taste of local fruits and fruit juice to refresh our throat, I decided that I had enough. There was nothing much to see or tell about the country from this site. Perhaps I would have a chance to go into the country and see more of what it has to offer next time.

I couldn’t be happier to have my passport back.

Ends

Saving the King of River : Kelah in Tasik Banding, Hutan Belom, Perak

Travelog date: Sept 15, 2008

Pulau Banding & Hutan Belom, Perak

No 'ordinary fish' story 

Dr Johnson showing
how to handle the goldenmahseer without giving any
stress or harm to thefish 

I am no angler, nor do i know much about fish. But when it comes to eating fish – anything goes. Ikan air tawar ke, ikan laut ke...anything, I am telling you, anything (jangan ikan buntal dah la).



view of tasik banding
from my room

 Setengah orang kata ikan sungai hanyir, tapi kalau dah basuh ngan air asam, garam, buat masak lemak cili padi, i can be sure finish few pieces (if the fish is cut of course, otherwise beberapa ekor la). Or give me the ikan keli (catfish) or haruan (snakehead), bakar dulu then cicah ngan kicap, cili, air asam...or masak lemak cili padi ...mesti habis punya. Ikan laut – takyah cerita la.

Even fish from colder water – then we shall have grill fish for dinner.



landmark bridge across
Tasik Banding



But ask me to name the species of fish, I would go blank, especially fresh water varieties. Just like my knowledge on other animal species (like snake in the previous entry) is limited, the same goes to fish. How to distinguish ikan sebarau from ikan lampam, ikan tengas, temoleh, loma...I used to call them ikan putih coz of the silvery white scales, and watch them move under water – really beautiful especially when the sun hit the scale and reflect it. And they have lotsa bones, small, lethal and so scary to the faint hearted.

Yet, why some people, just would drool every time when they hear these kinda fish, despite the bones? Its the taste – of course!

No pain no gain so good things do not come easy.

Like the thorns on roses, poisonous venom on those colourful frogs – these bones serve as part of the fish defense mechanism – otherwise everyone, human and animal would wallop them all. At least with the bones, human and animal alike will think twice before eating them hehehe.

What more if you mention IKAN KELAH (Malaysian golden Mahseer scientifically known as Tor Tombroides). Well those from Perak might have heard of Sungai Kelah but I doubt many young ones have ever seen the fish where the place has gotten its name from.



The restaurant
at the Pulau Banding Resort



What is so special about this fish?

Anglers will drop everything they do and turn when heard about the fish. The fish fighting spirit making it one of the challenging catch and catching it will be a big achievement in the sport. (I am sure many would tell an endless tale about how tough they fought with the fish and how close they were in landing the fish – but how many actually succeeded in catching the fish).

It is also gourmet’s delight. Many have vouched that the fish is so yummy-licious and even the scales are edible, so they say. The flesh has smooth and fine texture, the kind that they say (well I personally have never eaten one, only touched the life one) will ‘melt in your mouth’. (I believe it has to be an acquired taste to enjoy something like that). Even the scales can be turned into chips – fried into crunchy chips. How true is it, I seriously have never seen it. The fish can fetch such a high price, usually about RM30 per kg but some people are even willing to pay up to RM100 per kg for it.



Debris from logging
activity upstream is
threatening the
kelah population



Combined the facts that this fish is one of the most sought after by anglers and gourmet lovers alike have lead to steady depletion of this fish, and almost to an extend of near extinction. That is perhaps the reason why Sungai Kelah does not have any more ikan kelah in it.

The authority is doing all its best to save the kelah population from becoming extinct.

Various fish sanctuary have been created to breed and increase the fish population (especially in the river at the National Park, Pahang), control and regulated fishing activities which include the catch and release concept (you can catch but then you have to release them – provided they are not dead of course – oh yes, take a lot of photos as proof of testimony). In the Royal Hutan Belum, Perak, the fish is a protected species so no one can catch them without the permit. However, the Orang Asli has the right to catch them for their own consumption.

Well, that is their right to harvest from the forest, that does not mean that they have the right to own it. (Akta Org Asli 134 - Hak orang asli: Hak merayau & mengambil hasil - dari alam semula jadi utk makanan sendiri spt buah2an, ikan, rotan, petai, etc tetapi bukan hak untuk menebang pokok2 selain dari untuk kegunaan sendiri atau pun hak terhadap tanah hutan). By logic, the orang asli who lives in traditional villages, will only take whatever they need for a day’s consumption (because they do not have fridge to store the excess food).



crossing the hanging bridge
to get to the kelah
fish sanctuary in one of
rivers in Tasik Banding

 However, now, there are people who would commission these orang Asli to catch or take out the forest produce including ikan kelah. So when the authority nabbed these unscrupulous people carrying these protected species including ikan kelah, they usually will say that, those are ‘gift’ from the orang asli – and they can get away scoot free.

“One of the biggest obstacles faced by the authorities is that the fish has a very slow growth rate.

“It takes almost 3 years for a hatchling to grow up to 3kg and amazing 30 years for it to grow up to 8kg, depending on its environment and food sources,” said Prof Dr RONALD JOHNSON, a freshwater fish expert from University of Mississippi, USA.

This makes the kelah one of the slowest-growing fish in the country, said the expert who visited Tasik Banding to study our ‘raja sungai – kelah’.

(So next time if you hear someone bragging that they almost, that’s the word, ALMOST land a 20kg kelah, you know what to say!)

But on the good side, this fish can live up to 100 years, if they do not land in someone’s dinner plate. Well, they can even outlast most of us human – provided we do not be above them on the food chain.



me holding the kelah's scale
(should I ask for royalty
from Kosmo?)



Dr Johnson, the expert also told that the fish's scale can be used as the fish footprint (not a title of another blog yeah) which tells a story about the fish life. The circles and patterns on the scale tells about the fish's age, the environment its been throughout its life, whether there was any stress or pollution, and the level of nutrient the fish has taken from its food, whether it was feeding on nutritious food or there's plenty of toxins in the body  (time for the fish to go to the fish spa!).

Another good reason for protecting the fish is that it can be used as an indicator of the health of the river and its ecosystem, much like trout in colder countries. Unlike the giant snakehead (toman), which can thrive in dirty and still waters, kelah thrive only in clean and well-oxygenated waters, which explains why flowing rivers are their preferred choice of habitat.

When the water is contaminated, polluted or become murky which affected the oxygen level, the kelah will die or fail to breed (fussy kinda fish aint it).

Dr Mashhor Mansur

A kelah will breed twice a year and once its cycle is missed, it will take them another six months to spawn again, explained Dr Mashhor Mansur, a professor from University Sains Malaysia, who leads a team to conduct the study on potential kelah breeding in several rivers in Hutan Belum. (Six months, more like human pulak, hehe)

(Note: Tasik Banding and the Banding Island/Pulau Banding is part of the Royal Belum Forest Reserve, a protected area with its natural wealth beyond ones imagination. The Royal Belum Forest Reserve is bordered with the HalaBala Forest Reserve, on the Thailand side, up north)

Potential Kelah Sanctuary

The fish eat both fruits (which falls from the trees on the river bank) and smaller fish as well. One thing they share with salmon is their breeding habit. They (both male and females) would race upstream to the shallower water to spawn.

Like salmon, they too jump occasionally when faced by obstacles like rocks. Once found suited area upstream, with good oxygenated (strong current) and clear flowing water, they will find a spot with a lot of rocks to hide their eggs. They will release their eggs either near the rock or on the rock and once hatch, the fries will feed on the algae on the rock itself (buka je mata dah boleh makan, kalau tak kena makan la that is).

Oh yes, mind you, this fish can bite too – just like the notorious toman.

SNAKE THAT GIVES BIRTH - Kuala Gula, Perak

Travelog date: 2009

Location: Kuala Gula, Taiping, Perak

THINGS THAT I NEVER LEARNED IN SCHOOL

WHEN I was in school, I was taught that mammals give birth, reptiles lay eggs.

That was taken as the rule of thumb! If they lay eggs, then they are reptiles, but if they give birth then they are mammals.

I remember asking my teacher whether reptiles can give birth and how she used to give me the disgusted look, as if I had committed the greatest sin, and was not listening to her teaching and was just testing her patient.

She sternly said – NO!

And moved on, with describing other characteristics of the reptile.

newly planted
mangrove sapplings

That belief stayed on with me, through biology class in high school Yes I passed the subject with flying colours and strongly belief that reptiles only lay eggs. I went through tertiary education with that belief. Perhaps it probably would have been different if I continued studying science in the university but I went doing arts, literature and language instead. So the belief stayed on until I completed my post graduate studies. (I guest, even if I were to stay on and continue to do my PhD then, I would still belief the same – that all snakes lay eggs).

It was not until last year, 2009, that I learned - SNAKES DO GIVE BIRTH! Yes, they do – at least some species do - shattering my age-old belief that snake only lay eggs. 



They do give birth too!



YES, belief me, they do!

(Felt so dumb when I found that out, especially at this age. Perhaps I was the only few who didnt know that snakes do give birth, or was my science teacher just did not want to tell me, so that I wont get confuse and give a wrong answer during examination – argh, the exam oriented learning).

Where did I learn it? In the mudflat, Kuala Gula, Taiping. Yes, off the classroom – out in the mudflat! Amongst the mangrove trees – which I also called my ‘post grad’ classroom!



my post grad classroom



I was checking the mudflat ecosystem to gather information for our eco-tourism and mangrove rehabilitation projects.

Getting excited to see the colourful fiddler crab, fiddling, waving its bluish, oversize claw while the smaller claw busy picking up food and scooping into its mouth.

While the shy hermit crab peeking from its ‘adopted’ shell then rushed to move away from the crowded place to find solace.



mudskipper (belacak)



Watching mudskippers wagging their tails and gliding on the mud.

Then I saw it – the snake!

Moving ever so lazily in the mud before peeking its head from the water, perhaps to see whether there is any threat or purely to look for sign of food.

It was stripy and about a foot long.

I am not too fond of snake but I don’t think its a phobia. I just dont like the scaly, rough, slimy skin, slithering its way – definitely not in contact with me!

So I do not have much knowledge about snake – nor do I know the snake family much, what more the individual species.

I can tell the basic family like cobra, python or simply harmless garden snake. But I can hardly distinguish or tell the name of various other snakes. I dont even know the difference between boa constictor, anaconda and python – they all look similar to me. All of them kill their prey by constriction, coiling their prey and crushing their bones for easy swallow later.

(NOTE: Python - a snake of the family pythonidae, and more especially any one of the species of the genus python. The snakes of this genus are large, and its various species are found throughout the tropics of the old world. The snakes of the python family are distinguished from the boas with which they are often confused, by the presence of the supraorbital bone in the skull. As in the boas, vestiges of the hind limbs are present, visible externally as a pair of claws adjacent to the anal cleft. The teeth are strong and adapted for catching and holding the prey. There is no venom or venom-conducting apparatus. Killing of the prey is effected by constriction; one or more coils of the body are thrown around the victim, following up the stroke of the head, and pressure is applied by the powerful body muscles. The pressure exerted by a large python must be terrific. The prey is killed, however, by suffocation rather than by any actual crushing of the ribs – source wikipedia online)



Does the face really looks like
a dog to you?



 And what about that snake in the mudflat in Kuala Gula?

Its the dog-faced snake, said my boss, a country director.

A what?

A dog-faced snake! Its distinguished by the dog-face look-alike feature.

It was hard to see from the distance of how similar the snake’s face to the dog’s anyway, but i believe him, with more than 15 years in the line, I have to believe him.

“And it gives birth,” he continued.

“Say what?” I said.

The statement was too much for me to digest because it went against the 40-year belief I had about snake as a reptile – that they lay eggs.

“Yes, they give birth instead of lay eggs,” he reiterated.



crabs - fiddler crabs!



Oh man, I wanted so much to question his statement – but I realised that it would only make me looked dumb for doubting someone who can be considered as an authority in the field, someone who has done numerous researches on the subject and countless presentations all over the world and published articles and books over the years.

So I had to admit the truth – that I did not know that fact, and it was something new for me – and pulled the face of a newbie who is ever so willing to learn something new.

Apparently there are several species of snakes that give birth. Among them are the boa constrictor genus – which include the boa constrictor (found in South Africa) and anaconda (which is found in South America) – both from the Pythonidae family (common name python). Although they are from the same family, the boa genus (boa and anaconda species) give birth while pythons (which are found in Asia) lay eggs.

Other snakes that lay eggs are copperheads and rattlesnakes.

These snakes tend to eat the still born (dead during birth) to replace their energy, which was lost during pregnancy and giving birth.

The next question was – does that mean those snakes that give birth are not reptiles?

Actually I learned that giving birth does not make them mammals, they are reptiles, still, regardless of whether they are giving birth or lay eggs.

According to the Wikipedia the dog faced water snake  (cerberus rynchops), got their name for their distinctive head shape with large scales (shield), small eyes positioned close to top of the head and nostrils. They are found mostly in mangroves and brackish rivers, but sometimes also in freshwater or paddy field.

They feed mainly on fish, mudskippers and eels. They also eat crabs.

They usually give birth to a dozen or two young ones in a litter (Imagine such a small snake is capable of carrying 24 babies inside its tummy!)

Actually it said, the dog-faced snake is quite slow and they do not move much in water. When faced with human, they tend to flee rather than attack or bite. Phew, I was relieved!

Oh yes, the same thing last year, I also learned that it is possible to have a paddy field next to the sea, something that my art teacher during school years should learn too. Over and over they had told us to draw paddy field with only mountain or hills in the background NOT sea or ocean.

I would probably
would have gotten an F
if I were to draw this in
art class during school years

The logic was that, sea or ocean do not mix with paddy field – they will spoil the paddy. Sea or ocean scene go with fishing village with lotsa coconut trees!!!

But in Sulawesi we saw how the farmers have their paddy field along the beach – only to be separated by the road. The villagers are both farmers and fishermen.

I guess we are never too old to learn, afterall, learning is a lifelong process - beyond exams!

Ends

KHAO LHAM : Lemang Siam

LEMANG, KHAO LHAM
and everything cooked in bamboo



Khao Lham



FOR me lemang and raya are synonymous.

Mention raya, then I will think of lemang. Its not dodol or ketupat. I guess it has to do with the fact that I was growing up in a paddy field village. Both of my parents are paddy growers, just like the rest of the villagers.

That makes rice as the village’s main produce.

And when it comes to rice, the glutinous rice is of course considered as exclusive. Not only that it fetches higher price, but it is also served for special occasion or turned into kueh for special days.

I remember how my parents used to allocate a special plot for the glutinous rice – and it was a smaller plot, located right at the front of the field entry. Its basically the first plot that you see when you go to the paddy field.

The plot was well taken cared off, I guess more than the other plots. Any irregularities in the water level or crop condition will be immediately noticed and solved.

They also keep a special corner in the kepuk padi, the house specially built to store the paddy.



my mom adding santan
to the lemang



So when Raya comes, my mother would use the glutinous rice for lemang. And man how we always drool over it. The aroma of boiling glutinous rice in thick coconut milk, mixed with the fragrant smell of young banana leaf used to line the inside of the bamboo which its all being cooked in, is enough to shake the strongest of heart – what more on a fasting month. How as a child, we used to lined up near the place where my mother cook the lemang.

How we purposely move closer to have a better view and smell of it. And how she would scold us for getting too close to the fire and heat, then told us that doing so, mencium sebegitu akan mengurangkan pahala puasa. Oh, we didnt care.

The smell was too good to resist. Even the smell of roasting bamboo itself was aromatic. (Honesty, only those who have gone through such experience, while the lemang is being cooked, will know what I mean, and how good the smell is).

Once its cooked, she would put off the fire and leave some amber behind to keep the lemang warm. And the lemang will stay there for few hours until berbuka time. And how we would wait impatiently for the time to sink the piping hot, freshly cooked lemang into our mouth – and that was after not eating throughout the whole day some more.

We didnt care much about rendang or anything else that usually go with it anyway. Well, she usually would prepare the rendang later that night. Sometimes she even waited until we go to bed before she prepared the rendang. Otherwise, we might continue our feast and eat the lemang with her freshly cooked rendang and she might ended up with nothing to serve the lemang with in the morning.

With meat being such a luxury at the time, she couldnt make a whole bunch of rendang for raya. Barely enough for us and guests who come over.

Whats with the lemang?

It may be sound like bragging but those who have tasted her lemang can say that it does not need anything to accompany it. You basically can eat it on its own. She uses a lot of santan, yes we had our own coconut trees so there were plenty of coconuts and santan for her to use. And she only uses the thickest santan – pati santan. Then the seasoning – coarse salt. Seasoned to the right proportion. She also insisted on using the young banana leaf – so when you cut the lemang, it clings to the lemang itself like a saran wrap. Older leaf tend to break and they are less aromatic. Few years ago, we thought it would be too much of a burden for her, at the age of almost reaching 80 then, to make the lemang just to satisfy us. So we decided to buy the lemang and how unanimously we all agreed that it failed to meet our benchmark, although guests who came said it was deli- cious! And we also unanimously, agreed to beg my mom to make the lemang, on the 3^rd day of raya. Well we never try that again. Now she only supervises. We cook.

And oh how I miss my mom’s lemang every time when I had to celebrate raya away from her.

Thats how I love my mom’s lemang.
And another thing, even though no matter how many pieces she makes every time, they just dont 'survive' long enough to enable me to take back and share them with some of my friends. They would usually all gone by the end of first day of Raya itself or at least on the second day.

LEMANG in Thailand

I was really excited when I saw something similar in Thailand. Instead of lemang, their version is called KHAO LHAM.



Adding santan
to the Khao Lham
before cooking



Prepared similarly to the lemang that we have here in Malaysia. With glutinous rice (pulut) and santan stuffed in the bamboo to cook.

The difference is that no banana leaf is used between the bamboo and the rice...and they use coconut husk as a plug at the top portion of the bamboo. They also peel off the outer skin of the bamboo once the lemang is cooked (macam kelamai tepung orang Rawa kat Gopeng pulak). And they are using the same, thicker type of bamboo (the type they use to make meriam out of) as compare to the type of bamboo used for lemang (buluh lemang).



sabut kelapa
(coconut husk) is used
to prevent the santan from
erupting during the cooking
process



To prevent the santan from erupting and spilling out from the bamboo when boiling, they use a ball of coconut husk as a plug.

Manuk pansuh in Sarawak

This is similar to the manuk pansuh, the Sarawak's famous chicken dish cooked in bamboo, but instead of using coconut husk as the plug on top, they use tapioca leaves (daun ubi kayu) as the plug to prevent the santan and juice from coming out from the top. The daun ubi kayu in manuk pansuh can be eaten together with the chicken, making it a complete dish.

To eat the khao lham, you just need to peel off the bambo, just like peeling banana's skin. It is actually thin enough and soft enough that you dont need a knife or parang like we do when we open the lemang.

There is no banana leaf to separate the sticky rice from the bamboo inner skin.



cleaning off the khao Lham's
outer skin



Local people eat that part of the bamboo as well, which tend to stick to the sticky or glutinous rice (and yes thats why the call the rice as such hehe). They also claimed that this part of the bamboo (the thin inner lining) is good for the health. But they couldnt tell why or what its good for.

Once open, the khao lham looks more like steamed sticky rice than the lemang bakar that we are use to. But the taste wasnt bad at all.

Its lemak with mild sweetness to it, infact, very mild in terms of sweetness compare to most of Thai desserts that I have tasted. And since it is sweet, it does not require anything else to accompany it.Definitely not with rendang like our lemang.

They usually eat it on its own, over coffee or tea in the evening or just as a snack while on the road.



Khao Lham: Adding glutinous rice
(with beans)
into the bamboo before
adding in santan



Later on, I saw several varieties of khao lham – just like our lemang. In addition to the plain sticky rice, they also use black glutinous rice. Other varieties include mixing glutinous rice with banana, black beans, corn and sesame seeds. But just like the lemang, I prefer the plain glutinous rice best.

How much does it cost?

In Ban Rong, a village near Phuket where I first tasted the khao lham and witnessed for the first time how it was being prepared, the khao lham was sold at 35baht each or 3 pieces for 100baht. Basically its about RM3.50 each. As comparison, our lemang is usually sold between RM6-RM9 per piece. But this khao lham is also about half the length of our lemang.



Kelamai

Kelamai or Gelamai

If you travel along the old road (federal trunk road towards north from KL) you will also notice another version of lemang. Its called Kelamai or Gelamai. It is a traditional dish of the Rawa ethnic group originated from Sumatera. Many might have seen them being sold on the roadside, especially in Tanjung Malim, Tapah, Kampar and Gopeng area, where the largest population of Rawa ethnic group are found.

But unlike lemang, the kelamai uses glutinous rice flour (instead of the glutinous rice), thick coconut milk and palm sugar which are similar ingredients used in making dodol.

One of the essential ingredients is the tahi minyak, which is actually the coconut residue granules (which is the residue obtained from cooking the coconut milk until it turned into clear, yellowish oil. This tahi minyak is also used to top kueh kole).

The ingredient is then keep aside to ferment for a day or two. The fermentation process will give the batter its volume.

Then it is stuffed into the bamboo, (thoroughly cleaned of course) minus the banana leaf lining (like in the making of lemang).

The kelamai is then placed near open fire (just like lemang) until its cooked. Once its done, the outer part of the bamboo is shaven off, leaving its yellowish inner layer. At some places, they shave off the outer skin prior to cooking the kelamai while those in Tanjung Malim tend to use the thinner bamboo used for lemang. It means the bamboo does not need to be skinned off. Some of the variety also does not include tahi minyak in its ingredients.

The taste?

Its tasted like dried dodol, with the taste of tahi minyak adding the umph. Its also similar to the taste of kek gula hangus, except that its less oily.

The fermentation process also creates air bubles which in the final product, looks like spongy, cheesy-like, kek gula hangus. Oh yes, the colour is also brownish, just like the kek gula hangus.

Lemang in Indonesia

The Indonesian version of the lemang somehow seems to be like a combination of both our Malaysian lemang and Khao Lham. Its cooked in the same way like the way we do it here in Malaysia. It also looks the same. But the taste is a bit sweetish - like Khao Lham. Although some places do eat their lemang with rendang, the Indonesians usually enjoy their lemang on its own - just like the way the Thai people like it.

 

Ah well, its almost Raya again. And how I cant wait to have my mom’s lemang!

Ends